2: Vik ‘A’ 2018, Viña VIK

Very little about wine seems futuristic. Viticulture, and all that comes with it, is an ancient practice. We’ve all seen those mosaics of Romans pratting around with grapes.

Yet it has to be said that Chilean winemaker Viña VIK is coming close to pairing that antique activity with modern tastes — and the results are really something else. And, just like its capitalised name, it’s making wines to shout about.

Viña VIK is a bodega probably unknown to most, save for those in the wine trade who rave about its ‘holistic’ approach, with an art gallery and a hotel attached to the vineyard. But that’s all marketing guff.

“Visit to VIK Vineyards, Millahue, Chile” by rsepulveda is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

As ever, what matters is what’s in the bottle. We have to hand it to Majestic for putting in the hard yards and making the VIK ‘A’ blend available at a decent price for the quality (at the time of writing, £15). As they rightly point out, over in the American market that makes up the bulk of VIK’s sales, it’s going for over £60 a pop — so the current deal is an excellent one.

Majestic, as well as others, have the main VIK range available: while VIK ‘A’ is exclusive to Majestic, VIK’s self-titled flagship and ‘regional’ Milla Cala blend are available around the net. But for best value (and an earlier drinking window…), VIK ‘A’ is the one to watch. It’s a classic 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 5% Cabernet Franc to gently liven things up, coming in 14% ABV.

So, what’s there to know? On the eye, it’s got a reserved, garnet-red tint that somewhat contradicts its power down the line. It boasts great strawberry and sandalwood notes on the nose, with a lovely floral backbone that hints at the contents of the palette.

From there, VIK ‘A’ leads with a big attack of mixed spice, raspberry acidity and vanilla roundness. It finishes with a subtle, beautiful note of pot-pourri and mint – a ‘green’ flavour common in the best Chilean Cab Sauv – that really lasts. The result is marvellously complex, without being overbearing.

It’s one to really savour, with its long finish, clean structure and excellent clarity from nose to palette. It also pairs excellently with everything from a roast dinner to cheese on toast. So, while it might have a lot going on in the bottle, you don’t have to be MasterChef to get a good pairing. This one can do the work on its own.

VIK like to compare wine to art – and this is a modernist piece we can heartily endorse. Chilean wines grow in popularity – and, as a result, price – all the time, with Britain importing thousands of gallons of the stuff yearly. But while some of that is nothing to write home about, VIK ‘A’ is truly a bargain. Fill your boots with this very special, Chilean crowd-pleaser – before it’s gone.